Hands down my favorite snack while in Morocco was M’smen (I believe it’s pronounced em-semmen, but don’t quote me). A traditional flatbread often served rolled up with honey for breakfast, or with a sort of tomato-pepper jam for an afternoon snack from vendors on the street.I literally could have eaten m’smen for every meal. I didn’t – that honor went to the equally delicious and ubiquitous Tagine (a domed clay pot sort of like the American dutch oven, often with chicken or beef, a selection of veg, and some couscous all cooked together). However, now that I’ve got this ridiculously easy recipe for m’smen courtesy of Paula Wolfert, I practically do. This recipe uses the food processor, which not only gets the job done in about 10 minutes, but also keeps clean-up to a minimum.

And while I could talk about this flatbread literally all day long, what I really want to chat about is how GORGEOUS Morocco is. The climate and landscape reminded me of the American southwest, but with a fascinating fusion of native Berber, Islamic, Spanish, and French influences. We started our visit up north in Chefchaouen, a unique, blue-walled city nestled in the Rif Mountains.

Relaxing and relatively quiet, Chaouen is great for easy days of wandering, hiking, snacking, and shopping (plus the occasional photo-op, obvs.). The larger cities that we visited, including Chaouen, usually had 2 parts: the old city or Medina (maze-like walls of shops, schools, and homes typically built in the early to high middle ages) , and the new city which included contemporary developments and modern city life. We typically stayed in the old city medinas during our trip.

Fes was our next stop, and was the very definition of a maze. Without our guide, I’m 100% sure we would have spent our entire stay there dazed and confused. Lost, but well fed – street vendors and hole-in-the-wall restaurants could be found around almost every corner. All of the tagines, marinated olives, and Berber omelettes were incredible.

Fes was founded in 789 C.E. by a descendant of the prophet Muhammad, and is often referred to as the “Mecca of the West”. Fes is also the home of the oldest, continually functioning university in the world, Al Quaraouiyine, established in 859 C.E.

Taking a camel ride through the Sahara was one of the more anticipated parts of our trip, and it definitely lived up to the hype. A brief sandstorm and the first rain of the season made for a more unique experience, but it was a blast. Getting to know our guides and fellow travelers was probably the best part. Also the CRYSTAL view of the night sky around 1am after the clouds finally cleared: stunning.

From the dunes we took a road trip through Ouarzazate to see the ruins of Aït Benhaddou, a 17th century ksar built along the trading route from ancient Sudan to Marrakesh. Along with historical and architectural significance, Aït Benhaddou is a popular film location for movies and shows such as Gladiator, Game of Thrones, and The Mummy.

From Ouarzazate we drove through the Atlas Mountains to the bustling (and I mean BUSTLING) city of Marrakesh. Founded in 1062, Marrakech remains one of the busiest cities on the African continent. The old medina is home to an impressive display of artisan goods, local cuisine, and stunning antiques – and is the site of the largest souk (outdoor market) in Morocco, the Jemma-el-Fnaa.

M’smen

Via Paula Wolfert’s book, The Food of Morocco
Yeild: 16 pieces

1 1/2 cups semolina flour
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon active dry yeast
1 1/4 cups warm water (more or less as needed, I used about 1 cup total)
Melted butter for brushing and cooking
Semolina flour for dusting
Vegetable oil for rolling

1. In food processor, add both flours, salt, and yeast. Pulse 5 or 6 times to combine. With processor running, gradually add water until ball of dough forms – use only the amount of water needed to form a ball, which may be slightly more or less than the 1 1/4 cups called for. Process another 25 seconds after the ball of dough has formed. Remove from food processor and knead for 2-3 minutes on a lightly oiled counter. Let rest, covered with oiled plastic wrap, for 10 minutes.
2. Divide into 16 pieces. On a lightly oiled counter, roll each piece into a circle about 10 inches in diameter (keeping the other pieces covered with oiled plastic wrap while you work). Fold 2 sides of the circle into the center, then brush with butter and sprinkle lightly with semolina flour. Fold the other 2 sides into the center to make a square about 4 inches across. Set aside and cover again with oiled plastic wrap as you roll and fold the other pieces.
3. Heat skillet over medium heat. Pat out squares to almost double in size, about 7 inches across. Brush pan with melted butter, and cook, flipping once, until both sides are golden. Add more butter to pan every few pieces cooked. M’smen is best served warm out of the pan rolled with a drizzle of honey, however to make in advance, let breads cool completely on a wire rack, and reheat in a greased skillet before serving. Breads freeze well for up to 2 months.